May 21, 2012

SURFER GIRL


In high school, I was the "drama girl..."  Well, a drama nerd, really. With New York University as the institution where I'd end up studying thee-ater (and buying drugs from R.A.'s), the idea of participating in team sports really wasn't  high on my list of priorities. As a child, I wasn't necessarily nonathletic, I was just waaaaay better at drawing, and dress up, and doing impressions. AYSO soccer had no room for a budding young star with a chubby face and chicken legs like me. So, I spent weekends taking art and acting classes, tap and ballet...

But somehow, I got sucked in. For whatever reason, somehow, someway, I DID end up on Track and Cross Country my freshman and sophomore years. I was DEFINITELY not fast, and I was definitely never on varsity. In fact, my biggest claim to running fame was being crowned the Junior Varsity All Champ winner... In....the... 2 Mile. Yes, I ran the 2 mile on track. Know how many people I had to compete against in the all-champ race??? THREE.

Hey, 1 out of 3 ain't bad.

The point is, for a mildly nonathletic (Jewish drama queen from Beverly Hills) with substantial cardiac/strength ability, I do a'ight when I participate in activities that require some sort of physical endurance or coordination. 

I mean SERIOUSLY, if rollerblading was an Olympic sport, I might have had a chance at winning a gold. In 1995. In Central Park. I was good. And, I mean. GOOD. Three words: Lace. Up. Blades.... What's up.

But I digress....

SO, while on our recent vacation in Hawaii, P and I decided to take surfing lessons. 

Imagine Rob Schneider tanned (and toned), with dirty, bleached hair, zinc oxide covering his face, and huge monkey like feet: That was Mike, our surfing instructor. 

For the first 20 minutes of the lesson, he tried to get our names right. 

There were four of us. 

The plan was that we'd each "catch a wave," one at a time. Mike the monkey would find us "a rad one," give us a little push, scream "paddle!" then scream out the steps to standing up on the board. (Yeah... after "here comes a good one" and "paddle," I pretty much couldn't hear anything. The Pacific Ocean is preeeeeetty, pretty loud.) 

I went first... 


... and by "went first," I mean, fell first.




Eventually, however, I caught a wave....


But mostly, I did this: 



And it was worth every bit of the $75 dollars we spent... to give our friends something to laugh about. 

I'm not going to go so far to say that this might be my newest hobby or one that would garner accolades such as the ones I surely could have gotten during my rollerblading through Manhattan hay day.... But I will say I'm GLAD I tried it and would absolutely do it again...  I held in and held on. At 14, I could handle a challenge and at 35 I can handle it too...  Might choose a better bottom for bikini next time... one that doesn't scream "hey, my striped, falling ass, is HERE," but that's a completely different story and post altogether. Whatevs. Mahalo.

5 comments:

Melissa Chapman said...

I LOVE THIS POST, and I am thinking I NEED to get my ass on a surf board and just TRY it!

Darby McClintock said...

If you're a beginner, testing the waters first with your surf board should be the name of the game. This sport is all about surf safety and making sure you are one with the water before riding its waves.

George Cran said...

If you are a surfer and want to have fun, I highly suggest going to Surfing Vacations in north carolina. It is a nice place and the environment is very clean!

George Cran said...

orIf you are a surfer and want to have fun, I highly suggest going to Surfing Vacations in north carolina. It is a nice place and the environment is very clean!

Maya Howarth said...

I really love it when women do some things like this. I thought that surfing was just for men back in the day but it is pretty amazing how women can also do what men can also do. This is why I attended a surf camp in australia to get some lessons myself.